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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks, I just registered, but have been lurking for a while. A couple of questions:

1) Current truck is a 98 GMC Suburban 6.5 Turbo Diesel...I love the truck. But, could use more power. Will the new Eco Diesel be stronger than the 6.5? I have to think "yes". Any experts want to weigh in?

2) I have 3.42's in my Burb and it get's okay mileage...20 mpg on high way. Previous owner claimed 22, but I switched to A/T tires. The 3.42's tow okay. I live in the Red River Valley and tow my boat on pretty flat terrain, so it works just fine, but if I go east into MN and hit the hills I have to watch the temp gauge in the summer. My boat weighs about 5000 lbs loaded up. Not sure which rear end to go with when combined with an 8 speed...I'm used to 4 speeds.

3) I stopped at a dealership and we went through a mock order...why can't I get a 32 gallon tank in the Eco Diesel?

4) Leveling kit: can you install one in conjunction with the air bag system?

That's it. There were no incentives in place when I went through the ordering drill. Lead time is 6-8 weeks. I was quoted $500 over invoice. Pretty legit. I want to go with some pretty aftermarket rims, level it about an 1-1.5" higher, debadge it, All Terrain tires (not crazy, but BF Goodrich or Nittos) and muscle up the look a bit...I'm assuming a small loss in mileage with those mods, but what's the best guess? 2 mpg loss? More?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.
 

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6.5L DIESEL SPECS
Manufacturer:
Detroit Diesel (a division of GM at the time).
Production Years:
1992-2000. Currently still used in military applications, produced by AM General.
Applications:
Chevrolet/GMC: Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, C/K pickups, 2500 & 3500 trucks. AM General: Hummer & HMMWV
Configuration:
V-8
Block/Head Material:
Cast iron block, cast iron heads.
Displacement:
395 cubic inches, 6.5 liters.
Compression:
18:1 - 21.3:1 depending on year & application.
Bore:
4.06 inches
Stroke:
3.82 inches
Injection:
IDI (indirect injection), Stanadyne DB-2 mechanical injection pump.
Aspiration:
Turbocharged & naturally asprirated versions available.
Max Engine Speed:
3,400 rpm
Horsepower:
• 180 hp @ 3,400 rpm (introductory).
• 215 hp @ 3,200 rpm (max).
Torque:
• 360 lb-ft @ 1,700 (introductory).
• 440 lb-ft. @ 1,800 rpm (max).

DODGE RAM

VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, rear- or 4-wheel-drive, 2-5-passenger, 2-4-door truck

ESTIMATED BASE PRICE: $29,580

ENGINE TYPE: turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 24-valve diesel V-6, iron block and aluminum heads, direct fuel injection

Displacement: 182 cu in, 2988 cc
Power: 240 hp @ 3600 rpm
Torque: 420 lb-ft @ 2000 rpm

TRANSMISSION: 8-speed automatic with manual shifting mode

DIMENSIONS:
Wheelbase: 120.5-140.5 in
Length: 209.0-237.9 in
Width: 79.4 in Height: 74.4-79.9 in
Curb weight (C/D est): 5150-6200 lb

PERFORMANCE (C/D EST):
Zero to 60 mph: 7.9-8.4 sec
Standing ¼-mile: 16.0-16.7 sec
Top speed: 115 mph

FUEL ECONOMY (C/D EST):
EPA city/highway driving: 20/28 mpg
 

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The 1500 not only has roughly the same or more power but full economy destroys the 6.5 diesel. Reading the reviews on ram, Towing is very smooth through the mountains and easy to do while staying above 15 mpg. I believe they towed around 3500lbs.
 

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Dont get me wrong, the 6.5 in my opinion is a great engine. I worked on them for 10 years in the Army. The only reason they broke is because they werent used enough. When we were down range in Iraq, they were used daily in harsh conditions and the most common maintenance issue was the armored air conditioning system getting dirty. Engines were great with ofcourse that bulletproof allison transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow..that's a pretty legit comparison. I love the 6.5, but they're LOUD...and a little temperamental. The Ram appears to have a noticeable horsepower advantage. Tq looks comparable. I'm expecting that someone will come out with a tune on the Ram to take advantage of the Direct Injection. Anyone agree? I don't think it will need it. All in all, the Ram looks to be a better power plant.
 

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Is there some reason you want to get rid of the Sub?

On a purely cost-basis, I don't think it makes sense - your mileage will be only slightly better than what you get now (after mods and for what you plan to tow), and you'll have a truck payment and higher insurance costs to cover. The slightly higher MPG you can expect will take a long time to recover IMO.

You will of course have a new vehicle and a warranty, and likely no cooling issues while towing in the hills either. And all the new technology and safety features too. What's that worth to you, in terms of cost?

Hopefully I have helped you. Deciding on a new vehicle can be tough! Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Those are great points. My truck runs like a champ, does everything I need it too and lets me lock everything inside, not under a velcro tarp. Plus I can get my 10' trolling rods inside without taking apart. As it stands, my dilema may have been solved for me: I found out what my CTS is worth...OUCH!!! I can't afford to get out of it.
 

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Those are great points. My truck runs like a champ, does everything I need it too and lets me lock everything inside, not under a velcro tarp. Plus I can get my 10' trolling rods inside without taking apart. As it stands, my dilema may have been solved for me: I found out what my CTS is worth...OUCH!!! I can't afford to get out of it.
What's it worth? Did you have the dealer tell you what it's worth? If they did, don't sell it through them, sell it privately.
 
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