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Discussion Starter #1
I don't want to get anyone upset over a favorite oil but I'm wondering what type and brand of oil are some of you going to use?
 

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I had bought a filter from dodge about 2 weeks ago but have not gotten around to changing the oil...will do this weekend. BTW they charged a whopping $56 for it!

As for oil, I had looked in the book, I will use synthetic that meets the Dodge listed Requirements.

Before the oils changed to be DEF compatible (lower ash when burnt), Shell Rotella was my choice from seeing studies of several scratch/dig tests. Today's Shell Rotella (and other oils) are not the same as the older versions. They know this and they are specking a full synthetic oil for this reason and due to higher operating temperatures.
 

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Made friends with an Amsoil rep for my Mustang. Get the stuff near the price of regular off the shelf synthetic. Haven't looked yet, but I'm sure they have a comparable oil.
 

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Made friends with an Amsoil rep for my Mustang. Get the stuff near the price of regular off the shelf synthetic. Haven't looked yet, but I'm sure they have a comparable oil
Nope..check the website!
 

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Before the oils changed to be DEF compatible (lower ash when burnt), Shell Rotella was my choice from seeing studies of several scratch/dig tests. Today's Shell Rotella (and other oils) are not the same as the older versions. They know this and they are specking a full synthetic oil for this reason and due to higher operating temperatures.

Someone please explain to me how DEF, which goes into the Diesel fuel to help it burn cleaner, has anything to do with enigne oils?

Higher operating temps? I bet they're specking a full synthetic to get 10k oil changes from the oil!
 

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shouldn't ram have more info on this, i'm sure they would at least have something, i'd be surprised if they don't
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I just stopped by the dealer and gave $46 and some change for the filter. I was just wondering as I have a added page in my manual that says to use API rated low ash oil. While there I noticed a sign that had the prices of oil changes the 3.0 ED was over $200 needless to say I'll not be taking it to them.
 

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Only two oils that I have found that meet the specs are factory fill Pennzoil Euro L Synthetic and Mobile 1 ESP. Both in 5w-30.

Owners manual says must meet both ACEA C3 and Chrysler MS-11106 specs.

These are low saps oils developed for DPF equipped vehicles. There are other oils out there that have been developed for DPF vehicles however they do not meet the above specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks like I'll be using the Pennzoil euro L. Only have a little over 2800 mi on it.. will probably change at 3000. Thanks for everyone's input.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
10K is right, I just like to get the metal shavings out, might be a waste of $$ but I've always done it and have had good results. I'm not saying everyone should do it. Believe everyone has their own way of breaking in a vehicle. Maybe some one more knowledgeable than I am will chime in here.
 

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Like you Jr838 I would change it the first 3k-4k mileage range, but I admit it probably is unnecessary. Today's metallurgy and machining practically negates the need for old era break-in procedures.
 

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Someone please explain to me how DEF, which goes into the Diesel fuel to help it burn cleaner, has anything to do with enigne oils?

Higher operating temps? I bet they're specking a full synthetic to get 10k oil changes from the oil!
Sorry Rossn, meant to write DPF not DEF! Duh.

It is the oil...trace amounts of oil burns and creates clogging ash that plugs up the DPF. The like diesel fuel removal of sulfur, engine oils were changed to produce low ash content when burned. The new oil have less lubricity than the pre 2007 engine oils.

And yes full Synthetic, does not breakdown under the elevated temperatures, especially while towing.
 

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I heard that there's no point in changing your oil earlier since they apparently put in a special kind of oil for the break in process so changing it out early might not be the best thing to do
 

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I heard that there's no point in changing your oil earlier since they apparently put in a special kind of oil for the break in process so changing it out early might not be the best thing to do

I have not heard that. Only that the factory fill is the Pennzoil Euro L.
 

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Napa stocks the Acea c3 5w30 It's in their import section..comes in liters and 5 liter jugs.
 

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I thought the owners manual said to change the oil every 10,000 miles
Indeed, but as a preventative measure many will go ahead of schedule. As the engine works itself in there is a tendency to have metal shavings floating around. The filter grabs most of them regardless just nice to flush the system.
 

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Read somewhere someone stated their ED was delivered with engine oil a quart low. So, I went and checked mine yesterday, with only 800 miles on it and it was reading below the min mark on dispstick.

Anyone else experiencing same issue?
 
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